How to read a water meter
When it comes to water waste, you may be doing it without even knowing it. Running toilets and leaky faucets may seem minor but are actually costing you money and precious water: up to 10,000 gallons a year, per household.
Here are some instructions on how to read your meter, determine if you have a leak, and low cost ways to fix leaks yourself.
All Healdsburg customers have a meter that measures their water use. Meters are usually in the ground under a cement, steel or concrete cover marked "WATER" by the street.
Water bills reflect how much water was used since the last meter reading. Meters measure cubic feet of water used (one cubic foot equals 7-1/2 gallons). Healdsburg bills in units of 1 hundred cubic feet which is equivalent to 748 gallons.
How to read a straight-reading meter:
Read the numbers shown on the dials of your meter. The meter below reads 123456.78, which is the total number of cubic feet of water recorded since the meter was installed. Because our charge is based on units of 100 cubic feet, the meter reader disregards the last four numbers and records a reading of 1234 units.
Note: the large hand is used only for testing purposes and leak detection. Newer meters also have a small gear that is usually red or blue, that spins when water is used.
There are variations in Healdsburg's meters, so be sure you check which way each dial is turning when you make a reading. If you have questions about your meter or water service, call 707-431-3307 or email conservation@ci.healdsburg.ca.us
Find your water meter. It’s usually in the ground under a cement, steel or concrete cover marked "WATER" by the street near the curb. Lift the cover to the side, then flip open the hinged lid of the meter inside.
Use the large needle to test.
Make sure all indoor and outside faucets are shut off and no one is using water. Mark the needle(s) by laying a straight pin or toothpick exactly on top.
Do not use any water for 30 minutes. If the test needles moved, you probably have a leak. Certain leaks may occur intermittently, like a running toilet, and don’t register continuously at the meter. Check all plumbing fixtures to identify fixtures in need of repair including faucets, toilets, water heaters, and irrigation systems.
Determine if the leak is inside or outside by locating the main shut-off valve (usually at the front of the house under an outside faucet). If the dial moves while the main house valve is off, you likely have an underground leak.
Look for overly green or wet spots between the meter and house valve, and look for surface water or wet spot(s) elsewhere that may indicate an irrigation system leak.
Toilet leaks are the number one cause of high water bills. The leak may be caused by a failing flapper, plunger ball, float ball or fill valve.
- First, listen for hissing or trickling sounds, or a periodic “whoosh” caused by the toilet topping itself off every few minutes. These are all signs that a leak exists.
- Drop a dye tablet or several drops of ordinary food coloring into the toilet tank. (Healdsburg offers free dye tabs) Wait a few minutes. If color shows up in the toilet bowl, you have a leak.
- Next, turn off the toilet’s water supply (usually it has a diamond shaped handle, near the wall at the base of the toilet) and mark the water level inside the tank. Wait 15 minutes and then check the water level.
-
If it has dropped below your mark, the problem is at the bottom of the toilet tank at the flapper or plunger ball. However – if the water level has stayed the same, then the problem is an overflow near the top of the tank, involving the float ball or the fill valve – or both.
Most people visit their water heaters only if the hot water stops. Check yours. If you notice a puddle of water around the bottom of the tank, it probably indicates a leak caused by corrosion – a sign of old age. If the tank wall is corroding, more problems are coming, and it’s time to retire the tank and get a new energy-saving model.
Water heaters last about 15 years with proper care. To clear out any sediment, flush a few quarts of water from the drain valve at the bottom of the tank into a bucket about every six months. Also operate the pressure-relief valve at the top of the tank. Don’t worry if a little water leaks out; that means it’s working. Also close and reopen the cold-water inlet valve at the top, so you’re sure it’s easy to operate in an emergency.
Whatever irrigation equipment you have – manual, sprinkler or drip – be aware that not all leaks are obvious. First check for overly green or soggy spots, where broken spray heads or bubblers or underground pipe cracks will be obvious. Buried pipes, hoses or drip lines leaking into sandy, porous soil may not show up clearly.
Automatic sprinkler and drip systems that generate a hissing sound are likely leaking.
Remember to check drip systems for damage from foot traffic or gnawing pets or pests. Leaky hoses can be repaired with waterproof tape. Dribbling spray nozzle connection? Wrap the hose threads with Teflon tape.
If your pool has an automatic fill valve, make sure it is fully turned off. Then place a bucket on a pool step. Fill the bucket with pool water to about three to four inches from the top, matching the water level in the bucket with the level of the pool. Carefully mark the water levels on both the inside and outside of the bucket. Wait 24 hours. If the pool water has dropped faster than the bucket’s contents, you may have a leak. Contact a pool professional for help.
High Bills
On-going leaks can results in high water usage and therefore high water costs. The City offers a water leak adjustment for residents that fix leaks. Visit the FAQs on how to get a credit issued for a fixed leak.